An honest experience of living in Kolkata: Everything you need to know

Kolkata. Flower market. Photo by Austin Curtis on Unsplash

If you are planning to move to the most densely packed country in the world, chances are high that the city of choice might have an issue of overcrowding. Kolkata is not an exemption, which directly leads to many other problems for locals. For instance, job seekers face massive competition for prime high-paying work, especially in the IT and finance sectors.

A cab in Kolkata. Photo by rajat sarki on Unsplash

The other immediate effect is that of traffic congestion and longer travel time. The metropolis barely manages to cater to its existing residents with the infrastructure development, adding pressure when more expats settle here. For example, navigating the roads during rush hour is stressful and time-consuming, impacting overall productivity and quality of life. And the narrow streets in the older town also further add to the traffic woes. So if you are going to settle here, we advise preparing your commute in advance and also choosing a neighborhood close to workplace.

A cloudy cityscape of Kolkata. Photo by Rahul Chakraborty on Unsplash

Based on the World Health Organization's (WHO) ranking of cities by air pollution, Kolkata ranks 25th among a total of 1100 places on the globe. Two main causes for this are the presence of factories and industrial activities, as well as lots of vehicular emissions. Most cars in Kolkata are older models that do not meet the modern pollution release standards, leading to an increase in atmospheric contamination.

There is a huge number of lung cancer cases reported by the Scientific and Environmental Research Institute of India. The Telegraph has dubbed the city as the Lung Cancer Capital of India. In recent years, the state government has taken many measures to curb this problem by making stricter laws, improving public transport facilities, and enforcing fines on factories not following the right protocols for waste management. Besides air, there is also an issue of water pollution in more than 80% of the reservoirs around the town, and the major cause of this is West Bengal’s industrial growth.

An old building in Kolkata. Photo by SOUVIK ROY on Unsplash

Though the capital of West Bengal has a fairly well-developed public transportation network, such as metros and buses, compared to other places in the country, it still fails to completely cater to the demand of its residents. During peak office hours, the travel systems are jam-packed and very hard to navigate, especially for a foreigner. The additional infrastructure woes expats will face are the inconsistent water supply and power outages.

Trams in Kolkata. Photo by Alan on Unsplash

Most of Kolkata’s administrative structures are outdated and run on aging systems. The government has been spending money on upgrading them for years, but there hasn't been much improvement in this aspect. Another issue of the metropolis is the real estate market. Though the properties are not very expensive here, their maintenance has not been meeting the standards of other tier one cities. Most buildings are old, and their foundations are not stable. Selling an apartment is a time-consuming process as well and requires lots of paperwork, cash memos, and registrations. Make sure to include all these in your research before making the big decision of moving here.

An unsafely looking street in Kolkata. Photo by omid armin on Unsplash

Among metropolitan cities, Kolkata has the lowest crime rates and is regarded as one of the safest places in India. But many experts doubt the accuracy of this information as they believe numerous offenses are not reported. The major violations that can be experienced here are thefts, pickpocketing, scams, and misdeeds against women. The most under-reported felony is that of domestic violence and harassment.

The reason experts do not trust the statistics is because there are online forums which mention many undocumented crimes. The saving grace is only that dangerous activities like murder, rape, and sexual assault are low, but overparking, minor aggression, theft, etc. are quite prevalent. Before moving here, we advise doing proper analysis and finding the right district to settle in, and also be alert and aware of your surroundings.

People on a boat in Kolkata. Photo by ABHISHEK CHAKRABORTY on Unsplash

Kolkata is dominated by three seasons, namely summer, monsoon, and winter. The warm weather is mostly hot and humid with temperatures ranging between 30°C to 40°C with some dry spells in April and May. The monsoon period starts around June and continues till October. It is the most problematic time for the city as severe thunderstorms and cyclones are hitting the area from the Bay of Bengal. The maximum rainfall recorded here is approximately 1640 mm yearly.

Though the rough conditions are not always acute, they can suddenly turn from bad to worse. There is also a huge problem of flooding that happens, which brings the roads to a standstill. Water logging can be experienced in various parts of Kolkata during the rain. Our piece of advice for expats is not to rent an apartment on the ground floor in a low-lying region. Winter is the most pleasant time to spend in the capital of West Bengal as the temperatures range between 12 and 28°C.

A local restaurant in Kolkata. Photo by chiranjeeb mitra on Unsplash

Now let's get to the advantages that Kolkata provides for expats. First and foremost, this city is a haven for food enthusiasts, as its culinary landscape is a mix of many diverse cultures and traditions. Bengali people love their cuisine, and eating is a big part of local philosophy. Travelers can taste delicious street snacks like spicy puchka (pani puri), meaty kathi rolls, biryani, and sweets such as sandesh and rasgulla. The place is also famous for its seafood creations that define the dining scene of the region. So whether you are looking for high-end establishments or affordable value for money restaurants, there is no shortage of great eateries in Kolkata. Let us explore some of the budget top spots that should not be missed in the vibrant metropolis.

The list starts with Kasturi – a local-favorite haunt with over 14 outlets all across the city of Kolkata. It has established itself as the go-to place for diners in search of home-style, budget-friendly and authentic Bengali food. The restaurant serves Bangladeshi Dhakai specialties distinguished by their robust flavors and the bold use of mustard and chilies. Though all the joints are amazing, we recommend that our readers visit the one in New Market in the Barrackpore district. The atmosphere here is highlighted by a traditional design, complete with colorful cushioned chairs, massive copper plates, granite flooring, and bright lighting. They also offer a private dining room for large gatherings and family functions.

Visitors can savor tasty delicacies like chicken kosha (onion-based gravy) with flaky paratha, jumbo prawn malai (cream) curry with steamed rice, mustard chili sea bass cooked on a grill, rich mutton curry served with butter garlic naan, roasted potato with cauliflower florets in peppery sauce, and chicken biryani. Do not forget to relish their sweet dishes, such as gulab jamun, rasgulla, and cashew ice cream.

Average bill – $14

As we mentioned, Kolkata is a patchwork of cultures, which can be best felt in the fusion menu offered by the Banjara restaurant situated in the bustling city center. The place specializes in Bengali, Chinese, Mediterranean, and North Indian cuisine served inside a modern setting. Upon stepping foot inside the premises, patrons are hit with a contemporary European decor, made up of classic brick lined walls, hanging green plants, bright lamp fixtures, and marbled flooring.

The service matches the ambience by being professional and genuinely friendly. Sample scrumptious dishes like prawns masala served with butter naan, spicy chili chicken with egg fried rice, Cajun spiced lamb alongside creamy cheese pasta, lemon coriander soup, grilled lamb boti kebab in mint chutney, whole tandoori pomfret with mixed green salad, and tangy Afghan murg with rice. In desserts, enjoy their signature items like firni (creamy rice pudding made in spices), gajar ka halwa (caramelized carrot puree), and mixed fruit cake.

Average bill – $9

If a restaurant has been a dining destination since the 1950s, you know they are doing something right. Mocambo is one such spot that has stood the test of time, and if you ask any local to suggest an establishment, 8 out of 10 times they would name this place – one of the last bastions of colonial Kolkata’s storied past. The ambience maintains an old charm with servers dressed in royal traditional garments, shiny red vinyl banquettes, carpeted flooring, and polished brick walls with mirror mountings.

The kitchen team presents an array of unique creations made using the freshest regional ingredients. Some of the decadent dishes you can’t miss here are chicken à la Kiev, fish à la Diana (sea bass stuffed with prawns cooked in a cream sauce), deviled crabs topped with melted cheese, grilled lamb chops served with boiled vegetables in spicy mushroom sauce, and pan-fried chicken filet in paprika sauce. Elevate your meal by pairing it with their beverage selection of mocktails, milkshakes, lemonades, smoothies, ice cream sodas, and hot drinks.

Average bill – $16

Our last place serves the best Tibetan momos, which are also Kolkata’s favorite street side snacks. These steamed meat goodies are packed with flavor and always accompanied by a spicy dipping sauce. Nestled inside the Sikkim’s House, The Blue Poppy Thakali is restaurateur Doma Wang’s flagship establishment that has been serving the community for more than two decades.

The restaurant’s culinary team has developed a mix of Nepali and Tibetan dishes, along with a few Chinese specialties thrown in. Indulge your taste buds in gastronomic delights, such as warm bowls of thukpa (spicy noodle soup), pork cooked with mustard green served with fried bread, chili butter chicken wings, wok-tossed oyster basil noodles with hot garlic chicken, steamed pork momos in spicy garlic dip, and kimchi fried rice with prawns in basil gravy. Satisfy your sweet cravings with their irresistible caramel custard, Japanese cheesecake, and crispy banana-Nutella pancake. In drinks, they feature special boba teas, ginger lime lemonades, virgin mojito, and passion fruit cola.

Average bill – $11

Being one of the most affordable metropolitans in India and also home to many prestigious educational institutions, Kolkata gets packed with expats and immigrants each year. Though it is a lucrative spot to settle, we believe everyone should carefully consider all the above factors and weigh the pros and cons before taking a leap of faith.