Mumbai is India’s wealthiest metropolis, buzzing with excitement, old-world charm, and modern architecture. People from all over the country land here with big ambitions of making it on their own. The versatile destination is home to Bollywood – Asia’s largest film industry second only to LA’s Hollywood – releases over 1000 movies a year. The megalopolis has the highest number of billionaires and millionaires in the country and is also the headquarters of India’s stock market.
Despite its great wealth and many historic gifts like three UNESCO World Heritage Sites – Elephanta Caves, Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (CST), and the Victorian Gothic and Art Deco Ensembles, this seaside giant is a place of huge contrasts. You can find the globe’s most expensive residential house overlooking the largest slum in the world. So don't be fooled by its über-luxurious industrial look full of skyscrapers, Mumbai does have its fair share of problems to deal with, and here is why.
Evening in Mumbai. Photo by fuseviews on Unsplash
Mumbai is a fairly small city compared to its counterparts, with an area of approximately 605 square kilometers. But this south-to-north moving coastal landmass has a population of over 21 million people residing in it, which comes to about 34,000 people per square kilometer. Being the most populated place in the country causes a lot of problems, such as the growth of chawls (slums) – the preferred form of housing for lower-class people.
Dharavi. Photo by vinay manda on Unsplash
Dharavi, the world’s largest slum, is also located in Mumbai. The living conditions in these spaces are challenging as there is limited access to clean water supply, energy, and sanitation services. Even though expats have the option of living in better-developed districts, from time to time they have to travel through all the urban areas. No matter where you are or what you are doing in the metropolis, the city seems to always feel crowded and full of inhabitants.
Another problem the population and slums have brought to Mumbai is the dependence on public transport. The urban train and bus networks cannot meet the needs of the locals and are always overcrowded. Each year, on average, 3,500 people die while commuting on the local wagons. Most of these deaths are caused by crossing railway tracks, sitting on the roofs of the carriages, and hanging from the open doors and windows.
Mumbai traffic. Photo by Shahul Hameed on Unsplash
If you believe driving a car or taking a taxi is an option, then think again. Traffic congestion is a major issue, and during peak hours, the travel time can last several hours. Owning a car is expensive and finding a free parking space is extremely hard. In Old Town, for example, upon discovering an empty spot, you will be immediately approached by suspicious servicemen in vests demanding a fee. What is it for? Turns out, the patch is not an official parking, and the noblemen are there to make sure the police won't tow-away the vehicle during your absence.
A slum in Mumbai. Photo by Suraj Tomer on Unsplash
Air pollution is also very high due to inefficient regulation of emissions from factories and badly-maintained cars. According to the environmental status report by the Brihanmumbai Municipal Corporation (BMC) in 2023, the city generated 9,400 metric tonnes of waste per day, of which only 30% was treated, while the rest landed in overloaded landfills and dumping grounds.
A residential area in Mumbai. Photo by Mohit Tomar on Unsplash
For the average European or American citizen, Mumbai is not a very expensive option for staying, when compared to major cities like New York and London, as the cost of living is at least 70% lower when excluding rent. But in India overall, it is the highest while being 136th on the global 2024 Mercer Cost of Living Survey. The major charges that hit expats are the rent and property prices which are comparable to Hong Kong. The reason for this is the scarcity of land and the insatiable demand for housing.
Mumbai local train. Photo by ANIRUDH on Unsplash
Many people from all over the world flock to the city to capitalize on the numerous lucrative employment opportunities that exist. There have been quite a few redevelopment projects in districts away from the center to provide easier accommodations. This, in turn, brings us back to the issues of traffic, transportation problems, and higher travel expenses.
Dextrose hanging on a stainless steel IV stand. Photo by Marcelo Leal on Unsplash
Healthcare in recent years has been affordable but hard to find. When it comes to general basic medication, the treatment and waiting time are reasonable, but if you are looking for specialized surgeries, private healthcare can really rack up the bill. Public hospitals are significantly cheaper, but usually ill-equipped and have an insanely long waiting time.
Office worker. Image by Freepik
Life is fierce no matter which city you reside in around the world. Mumbai though takes this up a notch due to its insane population and underemployment. On top of that the average work schedule are 12–13 hours for 6 days a week. This place is the financial capital of India, but its economic growth has not been fast enough to create enough jobs for the workforce.
There is also a lot of competition for skilled laborers such as technicians, engineers, IT specialists, etc, and no professional security. If you happen to have children, only a few prestigious schools are considered worthy of international ranking where the application process is challenging and cutthroat due to high demand. So, don't forget about these factors before deciding to move.
Though Mumbai has a pleasantly warm climate all year round, it is also “blessed” with a monsoon season that starts in June and ending in September. This period is a huge issue for outsiders as the rainy weather is, without exaggeration, disastrous. The city comes to a standstill from the heavy flooding which is a regular occurrence during this season.
Dadar, Mumbai. Photo by Prashant Raje on Unsplash
Combine it with poor sanitation and infrastructure, and you have a nightmare waiting to happen. People can fall into manholes that pop up under water pressure and risk drowning. The continuous rainfall also brings lots of diseases, such as leptospirosis, typhoid, cholera, and dengue. Food products at home can get fungus and spoil due to humidity, and metal, from kitchen trays to car details – rusts easily. So make sure to seal all the open containers in an airtight way and keep them well refrigerated.
But a great aspect of this time is that you get to witness the hospitality and friendliness of Mumbai locals. Everyone comes together and helps each other out, and expats can easily ask any stranger for assistance which will surely be given. The city that should come to a standstill manages to function like a well-oiled machine thanks to the generosity and goodwill of its friendly people.
Mumbai spices. Photo by Akhil Chandran on Unsplash
In case you are planning to move to the Bollywood Center of India, don't be disheartened after reading about the drawbacks mentioned above. Like any major metropolis, Mumbai has its ups and downs. Ask any expat or local what the best thing about the city is, and the answer would unanimously be food. The rich ethnic diversity of this place, combined with the friendly attitude of the people, has given rise to a variety of dining spots that serve cuisines not only from all over the country but also from around the world.
Kaju Katli Indian sweets. Photo by Prchi Palwe on Unsplash
From high-end establishments by international chefs to street-side reasonable and tasty snacks, the cosmopolitan’s culinary scene is a mish-mash of cultures, boundless flavors, and countless styles of cooking. Besides its many restaurants, Mumbai also boasts a vibrant nightlife, which offers clubs, bars, and drinking establishments that are fun, safe, and open all night long. So, without further ado, let us dive right into the favorite local gastronomic destinations that should be on your must-visit list.
Calamari is a popular seafood dish made from squid. It is typically battered and deep-fried, resulting in a crispy exterior and tender meat inside. Served as an appetizer or main course, it is often accompanied by marinara sauce or aioli for dipping.
Started in 2015 by the late chef Floyd Cardoz, The Bombay Canteen is an influential dining destination with a historic setting of an old colonial bungalow. The vast interiors of the modern space are inspired by Mumbai’s heritage buildings, consisting of stained glass windows, high ceilings, polished wooden counters, and stone walls. The atmosphere evokes an old mess hall that was prevalent in the city during olden times.
The kitchen is under the guidance of Thomas Zacharias – the winner of Top Chef Masters and founder of New York’s Le Bernardin and London’s Gunpowder. The menu focuses on reinterpreted Indian classic dishes served divided into chota and bada (small and big) plates. Some of the signature scrumptious items to savor here are smoky Goan beef strips with olives, chargrilled chili calamari, spicy pork belly soup, sea bass ceviche served on crispy Indian flatbread, and black garlic chicken legs with pickled onions. The beverage offerings are curated by Prantik Haldar – Head of Drinks Innovations, who features concoctions like Runner’s High made with Scotch and ginger ale, and Stolen Kiss, a tequila-based libation with tangy starfruit.
Average bill – $22 (without drinks)
Prawns are delicious, whether stir fried, tossed through pasta, cooked in spicy curry, or placed in salads. Prawns can be served on their own, as a side dish, an appetizer or a snack.
Our next spot is a Goan-inspired spin-off of The Bombay Canteen called O Pedro. It showcases not only the seafood-centric cuisine of the nearby coastal state but also the Portuguese heritage that colonized it for 450 years. The rustic and simple backpacker-styled restaurant surprisingly lies amidst the shiny corporate towers of Bandra Kurla Complex – Mumbai’s business district. Its chic decor features cane chairs, rattan benches, lace curtains, and shiny vintage wooden elements.
The culinary team is helmed by Chef Hussain Shahzad, who presents traditional Goan foods with creative contemporary touches. Visitors can sample exquisite comforting dishes like piri piri chicken bites with garlic potato chips, chickpeas cooked in spicy fennel-mustard curry with banana bread, chorizo fried rice with egg, crispy soft-shell crab in tamarind chili glaze, and pan-fried prawns with raw mango. Satisfy your sweet craving with desserts, such as warm custard tarts, coconut churros with spiced hot chocolate, and caramel tamarind mousse with mascarpone cream. For drinks, there are local and New World wines, classic cocktails, and in-house mocktails to pair with your meal.
Average bill – $18
It's one of the most aromatic Indian appetizers, small pieces of chicken are marinated in spices and yogurt and chargrilled using skewers. Tikka means "pieces" in Hindi.
Sindhful, once a tiny takeaway joint in Khar, has now transformed into a lavish family-run establishment serving the best Sindhi food in Mumbai. The place is a neighborhood joint where locals enjoy a small menu of traditional classics from the province of Sindh, which now resides in Pakistan. The dining hall is designed in a vintage village setting, complete with a thatched roof, dark ceiling beams, polished wooden furniture, and hand-painted wall art, giving off an inviting vibe.
Chef Kanchan Ahuja and her son Sannat offer home-style comfort dishes made with seasonal ingredients. Come over to relish decadent delicacies: deep-fried taro root coated in spices, Sidhi curry loaded with vegetables served with steamed rice, dal pakwan (lentil stew with crispy flat bread), slow-cooked mutton curry with potatoes, and minced chicken kofta (meatball) curry with buttered bread. Do not miss out on their signature sweet items, including creamy cinnamon pudding topped with almond shavings and sweetened bread dipped in rose syrup with mascarpone cream.
Average bill – $12
Сrispy and tasty, tacos are a popular street food in Mexico and other parts of the world. The dish consists of small tortillas topped with meat, beans, cheese, and vegetables.
The final spot is the latest entrant into Mumbai's culinary scene, called La Loca Maria. It has successfully transported the joy of tapas dining to the city. The brainchild of Chef Manuel Olveira Seller from Toledo, the space embodies everything bold and unconventional. The interiors are regal and European in design, adorned with subtle chandelier lights, and handmade artwork on cream walls.
The cooking team features well-executed flavorful dishes from Spanish-speaking countries. Indulge your taste buds in gastronomic delights like beef carpaccio with horseradish cream, pan-fried garlic shrimp served with toasted brioche, asparagus risotto with shaved Parmesan, corn-crusted chicken tacos with salsa verde, and grilled salmon with roasted leek in lemon sauce. For desserts, enjoy lime chocolate cake with salted caramel, tiramisù, and chocolate soufflé. Elevate your meal by pairing it with fruity sangria, mezcal cocktails, margaritas, wines, and bottled cerveza.
Average bill – $24 (without drinks)
Moving to Mumbai might seem like a Herculean task, but rest assured that life here is not as bad as many imagine. Let us highlight some insider tips for our readers moving to The City of Dreams:
1. Use the mobile application called m-Indicator, which lets you track the train and bus schedules as well as shows the routes around the city.
2. Always take a rickshaw or taxi for short travel distances, but make sure you pay by the meter only.
3. Do not shop in high-end marketplaces like Godrej Nature’s Basket, instead buy fresh vegetables from open stalls and mini stores that have cheaper and better quality foods.
4. Never hesitate to ask strangers for assistance or directions. You can always contact the Mumbai police, which is known to be one of the friendliest and most helpful in the world.
2 comments
I'm curious, with such a diverse population, what kind of food can you expect to find in Mumbai?