Living in the Czech Republic: Expat insights & best local eats in Prague

A yellow building in Prague. Photo by Shushan Meloyan on Unsplash

Prague offers a high quality of life for an expat without the high costs of a Western city. The public transportation, groceries, and utilities expenses are quite budget-friendly for outsiders. But wait till it comes to rent and housing prices. Though the monthly cost of an apartment is lower than in places like Paris, Berlin, and London, relative to salaries here, it is rapidly increasing.

Due to low supply and high demand, the fees for a property in the capital average at around 490 CZK or $24 per square meter. There is also no rent control for foreigners, so you may have to pay slightly more than a local for the same place. Plus, to get a good deal, some amount of Czech language is needed to negotiate the listings, which may be hard for newcomers.

If the housing prices were not high enough, most banks in the Czech Republic charge fees on transactions, whether you withdraw money or purchase items directly. Though the tariff is minimal, it is important to keep this in mind and keep cash handy for everyday purchases.

A view of Prague from across a riverPhoto by Mihail Cioinica on Unsplash

Prague has a temperate climate: the winters are cold and the summers are extremely hot. In recent years, the weather has taken a turn for the worse. The cold days are snowy and windy, making life a little uncomfortable for foreigners who have moved to the city from a Mediterranean country like Croatia. Since 2019, summers have increasingly been marked by heatwaves, with temperatures often exceeding 30–35°C. The dry heat can cause fatigue and heatstroke, especially due to the lack of humidity.

The most pleasant seasons here are autumn and spring, but even these seasons are often accompanied by heavy showers. The dark, gloomy weather tends to dampen the mood, make traveling a task, and cancel outdoor activities. Unless you are a person moving here from Finland, Sweden, or the United Kingdom, the climate may not be your best friend in Prague. The Czech government has been taking corrective measures to work on being more environmentally friendly and hopes to improve the negative effects of carbon emissions in the future.

Ministry of Foreign Affairs of the Czech Republic. Photo from https://www.facebook.com/CzechMFA

Ask any expat who has been living in Prague, or the Czech Republic, what the main downside is, and the answer will be unanimous: the amount of paperwork. When moving here, a foreigner needs to prepare a lot of documents and get them approved. This has been described as an uphill battle by many Reddit posts, even for European Union residents.

For a country with a growing economy, the Czech Republic’s bureaucratic system remains somewhat outdated and can be challenging to navigate. The Ministry of the Interior is responsible for immigration in Prague, and it is highly unregulated in its functioning.

For instance, even if all your visas, work permits, and other documents are approved, you still need to report to the Foreign Police on arrival in the city. This means resubmitting all the paperwork again just so that your work permit application is rubber-stamped. The best way to navigate all the hurdles is to hire the services of a professional agency dealing in this or have Czech-speaking friends accompany and help you.

A person alone on the beach on a stormy day. Photo by shraga kopstein on Unsplash

Anyone moving to Prague from a non-Slavic-speaking territory will have a very hard time learning the local language, as the grammatical rules are very different from Germanic and Romance languages and tough to comprehend. Czech phonetics, with its consonant clusters and long/short vowel distinctions that change meanings, adds further difficulty. An expat will not need Czech to acquire a job or even to do their work, but in public services, people do not speak English.

Even if a government office works only with foreigners, they will not converse with you in any other vernacular than their native tongue. The reason for this is that they believe that you are in my country and you should speak my language. Though this sentiment is justified, it does make life difficult for an outsider who hasn’t mastered Czech communication skills yet.

According to a 2021 study by Education First, Czechs are among the least likely in the whole of Europe to know a foreign language. This makes integrating into the culture quite tough for an expat.

A hospital room. Photo from https://www.facebook.com/CzechMFA

Last but not least, Prague can’t boast exceptional customer service. This is something you will notice right away upon arrival, regardless of where you come from. Unfortunately, the locals have also widely accepted this drawback, and no one seems to complain about it. The phenomenon is not so widespread in tourist-friendly spots. Hence, travelers who are visiting Prague may not notice it much and probably brush it off as a minor discomfort. But once you start living in the capital, an everyday occurrence of unpleasantness is not conducive in the long run.

Anyone who believes this issue is confined to hospitality and government institutions should reconsider. Any visit to a public or private hospital will have you greeted by a grumpy staff. Even though many of the doctors speak English, other medical personnel, along with the language barrier, will also be curt and unsympathetic towards your ailments. Anyone coming from countries where medical problems are discussed well, and questions are answered, will see that it is not the case here.

Trdelnik cooking over coals on the streets of Prague. Photo by Lisa Gageler on Unsplash

Living in Prague is not only about all the problems you read above. It is also about discovering great dining and drinking spots. Even though most people never think of the capital of the Czech Republic as a foodie destination, allow us to change your mind on this. The city was recently ranked the sixth best foodie capital globally by JR (Japan Railway) Pass.

From welcoming beer halls and happening nightclubs to traditional taverns and fine-dining restaurants, there is something to satisfy every person's palate here. The young hip party milieu has greatly inspired the opening of exceptional modern pubs and other drinking establishments that also serve delicious comfort cuisine. The best part of all of these places is that they allow us to enjoy a hearty meal without leaving a dent in our pocket. So let us explore some of the top restaurants in Prague that must be on your bucket list.

Located in the heart of Old Town, U Pivrnce is a quirky establishment perfect for casual get-togethers with friends. It is named after a legendary local figure called Ruda Pivrnec — a fictional comical character representing a typical Czech pub loafer. He is a staple of the country who was known for his jokes about beer and insights into daily life. The comforting space tries to recreate the cartoonish environment of the protagonist by using design elements like LED lighting, hand-drawn caricatures on the walls, a stuffed full-length Ruda doll, and funny quotes from the show.

Aside from the decor, the spot excites guests with its authentic menu of traditional dishes all cooked using regional produce. Get ready to sample scrumptious items like confit duck leg with red cabbage, roasted pork knuckle in dark beer marinade, pulled pork burger in cheese sauce with coleslaw, beef goulash with potato dumplings in chili pepper, garlic soup with smoked meat, and grilled pork tenderloin in thyme mushroom sauce. For the complete experience, pair the meal with their draught beers, wines, soft drinks, and liquor shots.

Average bill — €23

If you are a fan of craft brews and American comfort food, then Fat Cat is the place to treat yourself. It is a vibrant restaurant with two locations in the city, known for high-quality food and beer degustations. Think of the spot as a form of Hooters but with much better meals, paired with smooth pints. Though both outlets are amazing, we recommend heading to the one in the Downtown district. The room exudes a lively ambiance with a central bar, bright neon signs, leather-furnished sofas, wooden furniture, a dance floor, and a few potted plants. They also offer outdoor curbside seating for patrons wanting to enjoy the warm sunny weather.

The presented menu has large portions and is heavy on meat-based dishes. Some of the delicious creations you can savor here are crispy chicken wings in barbecue sauce, tuna steak in lemon emulsion, creamy tofu curry with rice in coconut milk, juicy cheeseburger with pickled jalapeños, loaded nachos in pico de gallo salsa, chicken tenders with ranch dip, and glazed pork ribs with coleslaw. In desserts, do not miss out on their signature items like chocolate mousse with Baileys cream, tiramisu, cheesecake with caramel drizzle, and milkshake shots.

Average bill — €28

Jerusalem is a lovely Middle Eastern establishment nestled inside the Hotel Carol in the Libeň district of Prague. It is renowned for its mezze platters and shareable portions of food. The setting is intimate and welcoming in design, offering a peaceful dining experience for families and large groups. Get ready for a gastronomic delight of epic proportions, starting with appetizers like pita bread with schug (a spicy hot sauce with herbs), hummus with caramelized mushrooms, golden fried cauliflower with arugula topped in cheese, mezze platter with falafel and tomato cucumber salad, and smoked eggplant dip with pomegranate seeds.

Move on to main course dishes, such as shakshuka with Greek feta in tomato bell pepper sauce, grilled beef patties with rice, tender chicken steak with fries in tahini dressing, charred Moroccan sausages with fluffy basmati rice, and wood-fired lamb chops with marinated olives in mint garlic aioli. Leave room for their decadent desserts, such as pistachio baklava with honey syrup and stuffed with nuts.

Average bill — €32

For the ultimate party atmosphere, head on over to Waxy Malone's Pub in the Old Town Square. It is a high-energy Irish-themed sports bar that features 11 television screens, a karaoke spot, and live music, as well as DJ nights. The interiors are styled in a traditional pub fashion, complete with rustic wooden furniture, an open bar with a thin copper counter, maroon walls with hanging flags, and packed seats. They also offer an al fresco terrace. The highlight of this place is that the clientele here is mostly international, so it is a great restaurant for expats to connect.

Relish exquisite creations, such as crispy mozzarella sticks in homemade marinara dip, loaded nachos with pulled beef in cheese sauce, chicken wings in spicy buffalo glaze, jalapeños poppers with sour cream, spicy chicken sandwich with coleslaw, and grilled bangers and mash with onion rings in gravy. The bar menu is composed of some Irish favorites like Guinness and Kilkenny, Belgian Hoegaarden, and local Czech beer Staropramen. There are also signature cocktails, mocktails, and lemonades available to pair with the meal.

Average bill — €26

Like every city on Earth, Prague has its ups and downs, but the positives here tend to outweigh the negatives. The stunning historical landmarks and the beautiful architecture, combined with the well-connected transportation network and a host of outdoor activities, make moving to the Czech capital worth trying. It is the ideal spot for people who want to escape the fast pace and expensive living conditions of Western countries, while still maintaining the standards. For more useful insights into Prague, do check out our other guides:

Your best food & travel guide — 2 days in Prague, Czech Republic

Top 10 Pubs to Drink Beer in Prague, Czech Republic

Michelin selection: 7 best restaurants in Prague, the Czech Republic