Stockholm expat guide: Downsides, cost of living & best restaurants in Sweden

Snow-covered trees surround a glass bus stop shelter in Stockholm, Sweden. Photo by Hanlin Sun on Unsplash

Unless you are migrating from Canada, chances are you would not enjoy the winter in Stockholm. The capital experiences at least 6 months of cold weather, with three months of extreme conditions where temperatures always stay between -5°C and -12°C. The dark, cold, and rainy climate may be the biggest challenge that expats face in this city. The days grow shorter, with the sun rising late and setting early, leaving everyone feeling unmotivated and tired during this period. The freezing temperatures also make it hard to run everyday errands or have an active lifestyle with outdoor activities.

Because of Sweden’s latitude, the country in general experiences more hours of darkness than sunlight. During the winter season, Stockholm barely gets 6 hours of sunlight per day. Foreigners planning to move here need to read about preventing seasonal affective disorder by taking high-dose vitamin D tablets and purchasing a UV lamp for their apartments. One good thing is that the locals are quite adept at dealing with these problems, and they are also ready to help outsiders with information on the subject.

A stack of money bills on a table. Photo by Mufid Majnun on Unsplash

Something that goes hand in hand with a modern capital like Stockholm is its high cost of living. Let us start with apartment hunting, which is, by itself, difficult due to the housing shortage. Swedes often spend years waiting in lines for rental apartments. The best way to get a place quickly is to sublet from another renter, but it comes at a higher price. An average 1-bedroom home in the center of the capital can cost anywhere from 16000 SEK to 21000 SEK (€1550 to €1980).

On the outskirts, the prices go down, but then the commute increases. Everyday groceries and utilities such as electricity, public transport, water, and insurance are also not cheap. Based on a recent analysis, living in Stockholm is more expensive than living in central London, except for rent. The good news is that the systems are easy to comprehend, and many agencies help an expat get settled in Stockholm.

Euro banknote collection on a wooden surface. Photo by Jakub Żerdzicki on Unsplash

Another burden that seriously affects people living in Stockholm is high taxes. The country has a progressive tax system, meaning higher earners pay a larger share of their income to the government. This move is designed to help reduce wage inequality in Sweden. Unfortunately, that has not been the case. A small percentage of the population holds most of the region's wealth, and this gap keeps widening. Even though the present system does not reduce the space between the ultra-wealthy and the middle class, it does offer a lot of social benefits, like free education and world-class healthcare. There are also excellent facilities, including roads, public transportation networks such as trams, buses, and metros, and gardens and schools. All these are funded thanks to the right use of government funds.

Stockholms Bränneri bottle. Photo by John Fornander on Unsplash

Another small con of Sweden’s capital is the strict rules around alcohol consumption. There are only certain locations called Systembolaget (a monopoly retailer of alcohol) that can sell drinks with over 3.5% alcohol. These spots also close at 3 pm on Saturdays and are closed on Sundays. This may not necessarily be a drawback, but it depends on an expat's lifestyle.

A crowded street in Stockholm, Sweden. Photo by Ilia Bronskiy on Unsplash

Though Sweden is a very inclusive society accepting of everyone, in recent years, a noticeable shift has been seen in how immigrants or outsiders are perceived. Some locals have been blaming foreigners for problems in the capital, even though the expats are actively contributing to society and making efforts to integrate.

The unfortunate part is that this minor racism is not quite easily visible, but has been the experience of quite a few foreigners living in Stockholm. For instance, non-locals cannot easily find a job if they do not speak Swedish or have a non-Swedish name. Even though there are English-speaking opportunities here, many high-paying roles prioritize residents first.

As we already mentioned, getting an apartment is quite a lengthy process, and long-term leases are not easily accessible to an expat who also needs to compete with citizens for a place. While university education is publicly funded for residents, international students from outside the EU, EEA, or Switzerland are subject to tuition fees, which are often substantial. Also, becoming a Swedish citizen is very difficult and requires a lot of effort.

A person standing on a bridge looking at the water. Photo by Max van den Oetelaar on Unsplash

Moving to a new city can be a daunting task, and even more so if you do not speak the language. Integrating into Swedish society is possible, as locals are quite welcoming to expats and speak English well. But to build deeper connections and feel truly one with the community, a foreigner needs to learn Swedish. There is also the added burden of cultural differences in the country, which makes it quite challenging. For example, the residents of Stockholm value their individualism and privacy, which can be an alien concept to someone who comes from a community-focused place. Sweden is home to many unwritten expectations, such as the Law of Jante (a concept rooted in Scandinavian culture, according to which individuals are expected to be humble and not boastful), and even outsiders are expected to follow them to avoid conflicts.

Before moving to the capital city, we advise you to read and learn a little about their culture and way of life to avoid issues and raised eyebrows, and to better integrate into society.

Cooked food on a white ceramic plate. Photo by Faisal on Unsplash

Though Stockholm as a destination has its fair share of ups and downs, there is one thing that stands out: its dynamic culinary scene, which perfectly blends traditional Nordic cuisine with global influences. Restaurant menus are centered around fresh Baltic produce, game meats from the nearby forests, and seasonal organic ingredients. Most people think of Sweden and immediately picture meatballs, mostly because of IKEA shops. However, its capital is home to numerous diverse establishments that serve everything from Mediterranean all the way to Latin American gastronomy.

As an expat, you will be spoiled for choice here when it comes to dining out. From Spanish tapas bars to authentic Scandinavian menus elevated with Asian flair, there is something to satisfy every palate here. Besides that, the country also caters well to all dietary needs; whether you need gluten-free, lactose-free, or vegan options, they shall be readily available. So let us explore some of the top restaurants that you should visit at least once in Stockholm.

We begin our culinary journey with Restaurang Hantverket in the heart of Stockholm. It is an authentic Swedish establishment where visitors get to experience seasonal European home cooking in a lavish setting. The interiors are contemporary and sleek in atmosphere, showcasing true craftsmanship with their leather-furnished ergonomic chairs, polished wooden tables, diffused modern light fixtures, timbered flooring, an open bar with tall stools, and large potted plants in every corner. They also offer a private dining room for special occasions, family functions, and intimate parties.

The kitchen is helmed by Chef Stefan Ekengren, a household name in the country thanks to his famous cookbooks, television appearances, and newspaper articles that dubbed him “the world’s oldest chef.” Guests can savor scrumptious items such as smoked mussel toast with black garlic mayonnaise and bell peppers, steak tartare with lingonberries in red wine sauce, baked cod with fennel in fermented lemon emulsion, boneless pork chop with glazed pointed cabbage, and lamb brisket with crispy potatoes. Pair the meal with their well-curated drink selection, featuring signature cocktails, fruity mocktails, wines, beers, and lemonades.

Average bill — €38

For a lovely tapas experience, you do not need to travel all the way to Spain; just head on over to STHLM Tapas on Torsgatan 55. It is a vibrant spot that combines the charm of Spain's small plates with a modern Swedish twist. Step into the comforting, casual premises, featuring rustic elements such as red-brick-lined walls, small tiled flooring, granite tables, hanging contemporary lanterns, thin metal columns with green plants, and a massive open bar counter with marble and wooden furnishings. The entire space feels festive and regal.

The cooking team works under the guidance of Chef Adrian Reszka, who presents a tasty fusion menu of meat and seafood delicacies all prepared using top-quality regional ingredients. Some of the exquisite creations one can hope to sample here are shrimp tacos with avocado in gochujang sesame honey sauce, seared scallops with bacon marmalade in clam chowder, baked cod with peas in green Thai curry, fried pork belly in sweet chili glaze, and slow-cooked beef short ribs with mashed potatoes in truffle sauce. In desserts, you can expect to enjoy delicious items, such as chocolate truffles, blueberry cheesecake, and crème brûlée.

Average bill — €41

Our next spot is a community favorite haunt called Checa. Located at Åsögatan 176, it is a traditional Peruvian restaurant and bar specializing in authentic cuisine made from scratch. The establishment is the brainchild of Lima-born Valentin Checa, a former investment banker who left his job to follow his passion for cooking. The ambiance of the place is elegant and chic in design, featuring modern chandelier lights, simple wooden furniture, whitewashed walls with hanging abstract art, and a large floor-to-ceiling glass façade.

During the warm summer season, they also offer outdoor curbside seating for patrons wanting to bask in the sunny disposition. Indulge your taste buds with gastronomic delights such as oyster ceviche in parsley oil, crispy spring rolls with beef tenderloin in honey-chili dip, thinly sliced salmon sashimi cured in citrus emulsion, Jerusalem artichoke tempura with sweet potato fritters, pork belly adobo with rice, and grilled haddock in panca-chilli sauce. Satisfy your sweet cravings with decadent desserts like a fresh mango cake topped with meringue and coconut ice cream, drizzled with coffee foam and crispy corn.

Average bill — €46

Oummi is a contemporary Lebanese restaurant located on Lilla Nygatan in Stockholm’s Old Town. It serves traditional cuisine elevated using modern cooking techniques and seasonal produce. The decor is quite flamboyant and European in its atmosphere, complete with velvet sofas, brass lanterns, rich textiles adorning the ceilings and walls, oak wood furniture, and parquet flooring. They also feature an al fresco experience with outdoor curbside seating for guests who enjoy the warm summer climate.

The kitchen team is managed by owner and Chef Kris Gergi, who presents a menu of gourmet platters that are prepared for the eyes, mouth, and soul. Diners get a chance to relish specialty dishes like crispy jumbo prawns in chili sesame sauce, steak tartare with smoked peppers, falafel tacos with pickled turnips in mint garlic sauce, roasted eggplant dip with onion and feta cheese in pomegranate dressing, and chickpea purée with butter-fried portobello mushrooms. Conclude your meal on a sweet note with signature dessert items like pistachio baklava with vanilla ice cream, chocolate fondant with saffron ice cream, and roasted vermicelli noodles with rose syrup in pistachio cream.

Set Menu (Signature) — €48
Set Menu (Vegan) — €45
Set Menu (The Oummi) — €56

Just like any other major city, Stockholm has both positives and negatives. On one hand, the capital offers progressive values, a well-established welfare system, a diverse culture, and lots of natural landscapes. On the other hand, there is the constant presence of bad weather, high taxes, and a few weird cultural norms. But once you can handle the downsides and learn to embrace the upsides, life in Stockholm becomes quite pleasant and manageable. For more insights about the Swedish capital, please refer to our other guides as well:

10 incredible dishes you simply can't miss in Stockholm, Sweden

Stockholm: the Swedish food diamond

Top 10 Swedish and international dishes and the best restaurants in Stockholm