Trieste food guide: Top restaurants & must-try traditional dishes

A bowl of soup. Photo by Alexey Demidov on Unsplash

The first specialty is a great example reflecting the fusion of neighboring cultures beyond the borders. Jota is a traditional nutritious Slovenian soup that has become a winter staple in Trieste. While there are numerous versions, depending on the region, the main ingredients always remain the same: Sauerkraut, beans, and potatoes.

The broth can be purely vegan too, while meat lovers prefer enriching it with smoked pancetta, sausages, or ham. There is but one rule – the original jota must be extra thick, which is why flour is added to the mixture. Interestingly, in some places, meat is removed from the broth after boiling and served separately, while other cooks present it in a conventional way as a single dish.

The simple yet elegant Buffet da Pepi in Via della Cassa di Risparmio, with its shaded patio with parasols, is not some generic tourist trap but a culinary institution established back in 1897. Its surroundings ooze the legacy of Pepi Klajnsic, cherished for over a century by new generations of his family. Discover what happens when Italian passion and Slovenian hospitality meet. Note that all guests should come really hungry, because everyone will definitely want to try more than one delicacy, and portions here are truly generous.

Before ordering jota with Sauerkraut, start by savoring their appetizers: Liptauer cheese spread, crunchy pickles, and ham. Next, move on to the mains, including the star dish – cabbage soup we’ve just mentioned, as well as smoked ribs, Vienna sausage, and corned beef tongue with a side of pan-fried potatoes or breaded eggplants. For an Italian twist, take creamy tiramisu and a glass of Campari soda.

Average bill – €22

Sardoni in Savor. Image generated by an AI

Sardoni in savôr, or sarde in saor – our next staple – is a nod to the Region of Veneto, or rather to its fishermen who invented the dish as a way to increase the shelf life of fish. In local cookbooks, you can discover recipes from the 14th century describing the specialty of fried sardines mixed with grapes, vinegar, and onions. The modern Trieste preparation method remains pretty much the same, with pine nuts or sultanas added by some culinarians.

While onions cooked in olive oil and vinegar help preserve the fish, raisins elevate its taste making it more refined. Fishermen would consume the dish a long time after it has been prepared. Nowadays, as a nod to the ancient tradition, sardoni in savôr must be eaten at least one day after frying and pickling.

L'enfant terrible, Oscar Wilde once said, “I have the simplest tastes. I am always satisfied with the best.” In 2003, Trattoria NerodiSeppia, whose philosophy revolves around the writer’s ironic phrase, opened its doors and soon became the favorite local seafood restaurant. The charming venue, adorned with earthy shades and natural elements, is subtly lit and accentuated with terracotta hues.

On the menu, you will find a symphony of Triestine, Istrian, Hungarian, and Venetian flavors made by using the finest local produce. The fish section features the freshest catch of the day. We recommend relishing exquisite sardoni in savôr, linguine with clams, cherry tomatoes, and snow peas, spring risotto with raw shrimp, grilled scallops in asparagus cream soup with toasted almonds, and steamed fish salad with sautéed vegetables, lime, and basil mayonnaise. Their layered tart will make any dessert lover cry for joy: prepared daily, the shortcut pastry is combined with Sicilian pistachio and orange marmalade, creating an ultimate balance of sweet and sour profiles.

Average bill – €36

Strucolo in Straza. Photo from https://restaurantguru.com/Agriturismo-Debelis-Trieste

The Habsburgs' influence is evident in the majority of the northern Italian regions, as well as the Dalmatian coast and Istrian peninsula to date. The most vivid example of this royal legacy is the echelon of different strudels in every cookbook – from sweet, baked to pan-fried, savory recipes. And what kind of metamorphosis would you expect the classic dessert to undergo in Italy? Yes, a fusion with pasta called strucolo in straza (strudel in a cloth). Trust us, it is not weird at all. On the contrary, after trying the hearty dish, you will start believing that strudel is supposed to be savory.

The pastry is made with egg pasta dough stuffed with various fillings: ricotta, peas, spinach, beef or veal, etc., and immersed in boiling water. The Istrian sweet version is adored in the city as well. It includes dried fruits, breadcrumbs, and honey. The roll is also boiled, then cut and garnished with melted butter and powdered sugar.

At Agriturismo Debelis, you are invited to escape the urban vibe and immerse yourself in the serene beauty of Italian flora. The restaurant boasts a spacious yet cozy dining hall and a gorgeous sun-kissed terrace with a fantastic view. Elisabetta Fragiacomo, the owner, makes sure all visitors feel at home. For the offerings, the culinary team selects only locally sourced meat, fish, fruits, and vegetables. The food preparation techniques revolve around old family recipes and are dedicated to reflecting the dynamic nature of every season, which is why the menu changes daily.

Some of the specialties you can currently try here are thick jota with Sauerkraut, cured meats and cheese board appetizers, minestrone, fresh gnocchi and tagliatelle pasta, traditional goulash, meatballs, succulent pork steaks, and, of course, strudel – either as a main course or a sweet culmination.

Average bill – €33

A sandwich with creamy cheese. Photo by Gaelle Marcel on Unsplash

With a German name derived from a region in Slovakia, Liptauer Triestino is indeed a cosmopolitan cheese. People from Austria and Hungary also call it their staple food. The creamy spread contains a base of fresh sheep's milk ricotta and is almost frothy. Dusted with paprika, it forms an ideal duo with a crunchy cracker.

Bite into this milky-spiced delight, take a sip of a young citrusy pinot grigio, and savor the moment of absolute bliss! While the recipe of the cheese isn’t rocket science, its list of names is impressively diverse and is a curious linguistic case. Bavarians call it Obatzda, in Slovakia, you will find šmirkás, Hungarians prefer the word körözött, and Serbians label the spread urnebes.

There is no better place to sample a combination of Liptauer Triestino with wine than a small trattoria in the heart of Trieste called Osteria Marise. The celebrated neighborhood spot is known for its exquisite Italian seafood dishes paired beautifully with local vino. Normally, an osteria world reminds you of vintage decor, but at Marise, the atmosphere is contemporary and welcoming, featuring rich wooden benches, granite floors, black antique furniture, modern diffused lighting, wall-mounted historic portraits, and shelves full of alluring wine bottles.

The kitchen team crafts traditional dishes alongside innovative creations that showcase the regional produce. Some of the flavorful delicacies one can enjoy here are stewed cuttlefish with polenta, seared tuna steak with ratatouille, beef tartare in mustard dressing, squid rings tossed in roasted cherry tomatoes, seabass in red bell pepper sauce with baked potatoes, and gnocchi with braised beef. Elevate your experience by pairing the meal with small regional wine labels, along with a few vintages from nearby Slovenia and Croatia.

Average bill – €37

Presnitz. Photo from https://www.facebook.com/pasticceria.pirona

We already took a sneak peek into the sweet realm of Trieste by exploring its strudel history. Now, let’s take a deep dessert dive and meet presnitz – a traditional holiday specialty enjoyed with family and close friends. It is a spiral pie generously filled with various dried fruits and nuts. You will find puff or shortcrust options in local bakeries.

Legend has it that the treat was created during the Habsburg Trieste period. Back then, a pastry competition was taking place, and this innovation called princess prize won. The debate lasts to date: who was the royal lady inspiring the ultimate delight: Carolina Augusta or Sissi, Elisabeth of Bavaria?

If you don’t have a Triestine granny who lovingly bakes presnitz every now and then to pamper her grandkid, no worries! You can find the dessert at almost all local cafés and pastry shops around the city.

Restaurant Guru tip: pair presnitz with a cup of fragrant cappuccino. Trieste is known for having excellent coffee!

A visit to the Pirona bakery is a must for any literary connoisseur looking to relish a slice of presnitz. Founded in 1900 by Alberto Pirona, it is a Trieste institution cherished for its elegant Art Nouveau vibe. The interior space perfectly represents the late Neoclassical style of the city, complete with laced curtains, original cherry wood panelling, vintage brass machinery from the 19th century, and old mirrors. Since its inception, the café has been a popular hangout for intellectuals, with big names such as Umberto Saba and Italo Svevo having been among the guests.

It is rumoured that James Joyce began writing Ulysses in this very bakery, as his home was right next door and the bistro was the author’s favourite haunt. But today, the spot is famous for its offering of traditional desserts like presnitz, putizza cake, almond biscuits, pinza cake, and other Austro-Hungarian tortes ranging from Rigo Jancsi to Sacher. Pair the decadent pastries with their selection of coffee and tea specialties.

Average bill – €26

Do you prefer popular tourist destinations or off-the-beaten-path gems? Is spending a week in Trieste something you would consider instead of going to Venice or Rome? Share your thoughts with our Restaurant Guru community in the comments below and don’t forget to check out other food and travel guides.