Visit Bergamo — the underrated gem of Italian cuisine in Lombardy

Paccheri alla Vittorio. Photo from https://www.facebook.com/DaVittorioRistorante/

Let’s start with a very simple, yet flavorful pasta creation that originated a little distance away from the Bergamo center. As the story goes, a well-known local chef, Vittorio Cerea, had traveled to Disneyland in Orlando with his wife for a vacation. There, he had an intimate dinner at the in-park Italian establishment that served a tagliatelle dish. Curiously, finishing touches to the bowl were done tableside.

Impressed by the concept, Chef Vittorio proposed his take on the recipe and introduced it to the menu upon his return to his city. He used paccheri tubes as a carb base and mixed them with a special sauce made using three different types of tomatoes, namely San Marzano, oxheart, and datterini di pachino. Same as at the American restaurant, the sauce would be incorporated with paccheri at the table, in front of the guests. This unique meal became so popular around the town that it can now be found at nearly every eatery in this region.

Since you are in Bergamo, the one and only place to sample paccheri alla vittorio here is the three Michelin-starred Da Vittorio, where it was created. Founded in 1966 by Vittorio Cerea, it is a family-run fine-dining establishment sitting pretty in a massive villa surrounded by ten acres of gardens. Today, the venue is run by the children of the Cerea family, with the three brothers managing the kitchen operations and two sisters handling front-of-the-house and public relations. Da Vittorio is located in Brusaporto, approximately 30 minutes from central Bergamo by car or public transport.

Have a seat in their dining hall, with warm chandelier lights, leather-furnished chairs, potted plants, and rich parquet flooring. There is also an outdoor garden seating area, which is used for large gatherings and special events. The cooking team is headed by Chef Enrico, the eldest son, who presents a menu of classic Mediterranean cuisine. You can expect to savor delicious dishes like oxtail ravioli with chard, pumpkin risotto with broiled lobster tail, paccheri alla vittorio with fresh basil, pan-roasted sea bass with parsnip, braised veal cheeks with Jerusalem artichokes, king crab marzipan in citrus fruit emulsion, and leek tatin with truffles in Parmigiana foam. Do not forget to pair the meal with their regional wine list — a beautiful love letter to Lombardy.

Nella tradizione di Vittorio menu — €320

Casoncelli alla bergamasca. Photo from https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=61574989170102#

Our second dish is the perfect representation of Bergamo’s culinary heritage, going by the name of casoncelli alla bergamasca. Freshly made pasta is stuffed with a combination of ground pork, roasted veal bites, breadcrumbs, raisins, garlic, parsley, and grated cheese. Occasionally, even pieces of pear are added to the mixture. The dough is then folded, boiled, and served with a burnt butter and sage sauce, often incorporated with pancetta and grated Parmigiano. The finished delicacy is hearty and filling, and it leaves you with a contented feeling.

We can trace back its history to the Middle Ages, when leftovers like bread, meat, and cheese were incorporated into cucina povera (poor cooking) to create a satisfying bowl of pasta that could feed the whole family. Today, casoncelli alla bergamasca has become a proud symbol of the city’s history and is often served at festivals and large family gatherings.

For the perfect bite of authentic comfort cuisine, we recommend visiting Nonna Alda — Cucina Bergamasca in the heart of Città Alta. It is the latest establishment started by the third generation of the Taiocchi family, who are a locally renowned restaurateur family responsible for the community's favorite trattorias. The spot is run by Elisa and her husband Ovidiu, who have managed to create a cozy haven. The space is minimalistic and inviting, made up of rustic wooden furniture, tall ceilings, red tiled flooring, and various decorative objects, such as vintage paintings, mirrors, and handicrafts.

The cooking team is not run by professionally trained chefs, but simple nonnas who use traditional preparation methods to serve homestyle foods. The most scrumptious items to sample here are sliced salami with Branzi cheese, buckwheat fritters with seasoned polenta, lean ravioli served with hare stew, old-style casoncelli alla bergamasca in butter pancetta sauce, black cherry risotto with toasted walnuts, and slow-cooked pork cheek in Merlot with seasonal vegetables. In desserts, do order their signature sweet dishes, such as soft almond cake with mascarpone cream and shortcrust pastry tart with homemade fruit jam.

Average bill — €37

Polenta taragna. Photo from https://www.facebook.com/groups/43264933233

Do not be fooled by the name: polenta taragna is not made out of corn alone, as most people might assume. Long before maize became a primary ingredient in Italy, ancient Rome used to serve a similar dish made using farro, millet, or chickpea flour. These earlier versions were a reliable source of energy for soldiers and farmers who would flavor the bowl with herbs, meat, or spices. To pay homage to this culinary heritage, polenta taragna was born. It is an elaborate combination of yellow corn and buckwheat flour, elevated using butter and cheese.

The name of the meal comes from the word tarel or tarai, a large wooden spoon used to stir the mixture that is cooked in a copper pot over a fireplace. The rustic item is characterized by a dark grayish color, due to the buckwheat and creamy texture from the cheese and butter. The commonly used types of cheese for this dish are semi-fat cow milk varieties such as Bitto, Branzi, Fontina, or Valtellina Casera. The specialty can be enjoyed on its own as a main course or paired with cold cuts and Italian pickles.

A quaint, family-run eatery, Trattoria Parietti is a hidden gem, as most tourists would just walk past this tiny establishment, but the locals flock to the restaurant for their daily lunch. Take a step into their warm dining room and be welcomed by a classic trattoria setting. The small space exudes an alluring elegance, featuring checkered tablecloths, polished wooden furniture, walls with artworks, red tiled flooring, and an old-school tavern vibe.

The tables are packed together; however, the lovely service staff with their professional and friendly approach will make you feel at home. The menu offerings are a representation of traditional regional foods made using seasonal ingredients. Diners get to relish roasted shrimp in garlic oil with lemon slices, smoked swordfish with toasted bread, beef carpaccio, polenta taragna with braised veal cheeks, seared scallops served on a bed of mushroom sauce, and grilled beef tenderloin with arugula salad in creamy truffle sauce. For the complete experience, pair the meal with their drink selection, composed of beers, wines, coffees, apéritifs, and non-alcoholic beverages.

Average bill — €31

Polenta e osèi. Photo from https://www.facebook.com/PasticceriaCaffetteriaSantAnna/

We have all seen cooking shows where savory-looking items such as pizzas and burgers are made into cakes. However, before these TV episodes, Italian bakers were following this tradition nearly a century ago with polenta e osèi. The name, meaning cornmeal and birds, refers to a main course dish of small fowl served on a bed of polenta. But in the city of Bergamo, this entrée converts into a celebrated dessert renowned for its unique flavor and distinctive presentation.

Individual rum-soaked sponge cakes are made with a combination of sugar, honey, eggs, corn, potato flour, and a leavening agent. It can be topped with layers of hazelnut cream and chocolate, as well as covered in yellow castor sugar or marzipan to mimic cheesy molds. Some places also dab a little apricot jam for a tangy finish and moisten with citrus Curaçao liquor. As per some rumors, the sweet delight came into being in the early 20th century, when Amadeo and Giuseppina Alessio, the owners of Pasticceria Milanese, created this mouthwatering bite.

Unfortunately, Pasticceria Milanese is not there anymore in Bergamo, but another pastry shop in the heart of the city, called Sant’Anna, is worth checking out instead. It is a family-owned and operated outlet that was started in 1996 by Ivar Foglieni and his grandmother, Francesca. Today, the eatery is run by Isabella, the wife of Ivar’s son, Darwin.

The ambiance is cafésque, resembling a bistro with wooden ceiling beams, a large display counter full of baked goods, a small bar, and an assortment of modern glass tables spread across the premises. They also offer an al fresco curbside space covered with parasols for patrons wanting to enjoy the warm sunny disposition.

The spot specializes only in delightful pastries, such as jam-filled brioche buns, chocolate croissants, marzipan-wrapped polenta e osèi with fruit toppings, hazelnut cookies, warm apple strudel with vanilla ice cream, mini Sacher tart, cheesecake, candied lemon pie in Chantilly cream, and flaky pastry with pistachio crumble. Pair the goodies with teas, coffee, hot cocoa, and other specialty drinks.

Average bill — €24

Stracciatella. Photo from https://www.facebook.com/lamarianna.it/

Our last item is a sweet gelato beloved all across the globe — stracciatella. Not to be confused with the ancient egg drop soup or the creamy stringy buffalo cheese with the same name. All three dishes share one name but originated from different Italian regions, namely, Rome, Puglia, and Bergamo. We will focus on the sweet creation that consists of milk, cream, and sugar, with chocolate bits swirled into the mix.

Stracciatella was invented in 1962 at Ristorante La Marianna by Enrico Panattoni, who took inspiration from the soup made by cracking eggs into a broth. He used a similar process and crushed bits of chocolate into the ice cream mixture to form a smooth consistency. The final concoction is characterized by a creamy texture with a slight crunch. In 2017, stracciatella was formally recognized as an identifying product of the city through a collective trademark. This was done to promote food tourism to Bergamo by local entities, including the Chamber of Commerce and the Association of Master Ice-cream Makers.

There is no better place on the globe than La Marianna in Bergamo for sampling the stracciatella gelato. Located in the scenic Città Alta at the foot of the Adalberto Tower, it is a fine-dining establishment with a vintage charm. Though we are here for their signature creations, we do recommend having a proper three to four-course meal here.

Begin your gastronomic journey with appetizers like stuffed zucchini flowers with ricotta served in tomato cream, hand-sliced cured ham with tomato bruschetta, beef tartare in pepper olive oil, charred tuna in wasabi mayo with avocado salad, and Catalan-style octopus with eggplant Parmesan. Move on to decadent delights, such as homemade pappardelle in Tuscan ragù, tagliolini with buttered scampi in cherry tomato sauce, grilled T-bone steak with potatoes, sliced sirloin with sautéed spinach in red wine jus, pesto-crusted sea bass with herb salad, and tuna tataki with polenta in onion jam. Conclude your indulgent experience on a sweet note with desserts like a white chocolate cupcake with pistachio, Venetian plum cake, signature stracciatella, and classic panettone with raspberry coulis.

Average bill — €41

Bergamo is a stunning oasis with a varied culinary tradition influenced not just by the age-old recipes but also by the unique regional environment. It features an authentic experience that is rich in flavor. The charming travel destination seems to have been shaped specifically for food lovers, just like the country it resides in. For more detailed information on unmissable gastronomic enclaves in Italy, do also refer to our other food and travel guides:

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Top 9 affordable Michelin Bib Gourmand restaurants in Rome, Italy

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Michelin Guide selection: Top 20 restaurants in Parma, Italy