Pros and Cons of living in Lisbon, Portugal as an expat

Stack of papers. Photo by Kelly Sikkema on Unsplash

Navigating the bureaucracy is, unarguably, one of the main downsides of living in Lisbon and the rest of Portugal. Trying to get any official work done, like starting a business, applying for a residency permit, planning approvals, etc. can be a daunting task, characterized by long wait times and confusion. Hundreds of forms need to be filled out in proper order which doesn’t guarantee anything.

On top of that, every government department happens to have a different opinion on which pieces of documents are required. Since the offices are understaffed, it becomes hard to procure an appointment, and the whole process can be messy and frustrating to deal with. One way to ease your headaches is to hire the services of a lawyer or an accountant to help tackle the challenges. They can streamline the approval procedure by double-checking the filings and reducing their clients’ stress.

Clothes hanging from balconies in Lisbon Old Quarter. Photo by Ximena Nahmias on Unsplash

After hearing the words housing crisis, you might think it refers to the pricing of buildings. But in Lisbon, it does not only mean soaring costs. The capital city offers a changing weather pattern that ranges from damp winters to extremely dry summers. Most housing structures in the metropolis are very cold and humid to live in as many of them are old in their quality of construction and lack proper insulation.

The different properties vary drastically, as some simply require wearing a sweater, while others may demand jackets, gloves, and three to four pairs of socks. Renters and homeowners can always improve their condition by adding a gas central heating or an effective pellet heater, but that can be expensive depending on the size of the place.

Another issue here is that temperatures in summer can get quite high, especially during the heat waves. And only 13.2% of homes in the city have air conditioning systems. So if you are a foreigner who is used to ACs, it might be a little tricky to adjust in Lisbon.

EURO banknotes. Photo by Markus Spiske on Unsplash

This might seem like a very surprising downside, as Portugal is a European Union country. But ask any local person what they feel is a big problem in Lisbon, and the answer will mostly be corruption. According to Transparency International’s 2021 Corruption Perceptions Index – Portugal was ranked 32nd out of 198 countries for corruption.

This issue stems from the capital city, as backhanders have nearly permeated every social area. They can range from your council right up to the higher echelons of government. Today, the average population sees this as an everyday part of life or as a tax they need to pay to get around the already troublesome bureaucracy. While you may not need to bribe the police in the streets to go on about your day-to-day routine like in some third-world countries, it does affect how development work takes place and what facilities are provided to the public.

Silhouette of a person sitting on a bench. Photo by Chris Curry on Unsplash

The Lisboans happen to possess a glass-half-empty mentality, which can be frustrating to outsiders, particularly entrepreneurs and go-getters who find opportunities around every corner. Most locals see the world less optimistically, and the laid-back attitude does not help in improving the situation anytime soon. If you are an anxious person who needs happiness around to be uplifted, then Lisbon would not be a great place to be living in as you will be surrounded by melancholy and sadness.

Another issue is casual racism, which isn’t a big problem for most expats but has been widely reported in closed circles. Many foreigners, especially from Brazil and other Portuguese colonies have experienced prejudice and have been treated differently. Though this will not be visible on a day-to-day basis, if you live in the capital long enough and make friends with people of color, then you may hear some stories.

A restaurant at a promenade in Lisbon. Photo by Humphrey Muleba on Unsplash

According to the Restaurant Guru mentality, the glass is always half full. Do not get disheartened by the above cons, as Lisbon is brimming with numerous advantages. The most important among them is its amazing gastronomic milieu, which makes the place a true paradise for foodies. The capital allures with a unique blend of Mediterranean and Atlantic influences, with a strong focus on fresh produce and local ingredients. Thanks to its proximity to the Atlantic, the cuisine consists of top-quality seafood like sardines, salted cod, mussel stews, etc. So here is our list of exceptional hidden wallet-friendly places to keep in mind when moving to Lisbon.

Built in the 1600s, Casa do Alentejo was the residence of the Paes de Amaral family – viscounts of Alverca. Today, it is a heritage monument that rejoices in the history of the Alentejo people. The interiors are regal and lavish in design, made up of a Moorish courtyard consisting of two spaces in the Rococo style of Louis XVI. One of the rooms is now a ballroom for private events, decorated with mirrors, large ceiling frescoes, and sculptures of allegorical figures. The other hall is a restaurant featuring large tile panels from the 19th and early 20th centuries. Unlike the royal surroundings, the prices at Casa do Alentejo are pleasantly budget-friendly.

The menu is a celebration of Portuguese cuisine coupled with the specialties of the Alentejo. Some of the delicious creations you can savor here are tuna tartare with yuzu, black pig ham sausage, vegetable cream soup with poached egg, fried cod filet with asparagus, salmon loin with mashed potatoes, grilled steak in a mushroom pepper sauce, and roasted lamb chops with bean rice. Try their signature chocolate mousse, fruit salad, and vanilla egg pudding for desserts.

Average bill – €24

Another great value-for-money spot in Lisbon is A Licorista e o Bacalhoeiro. Being a popular neighborhood joint, the place is usually crowded. Locals love to visit this restaurant/bar for simple wholesome Portuguese fare. The ambiance is laid back and welcoming, with marbled flooring, vintage paintings, a tiled mural depicting a suited gentleman, and a semi-open wine bar. They also feature outdoor seating parallel to the street for patrons to enjoy the sunny weather.

The kitchen presents a menu of traditional seafood offerings using the freshest ingredients. Guests can sample scrumptious dishes, including bacalhau à minha (thinly sliced cod) with fried potatoes, spicy grilled steak, whole roasted sea bream with broccoli, shrimp cooked in garlic parsley oil with toasted bread, charred salmon filet with oven-baked baby potatoes, and braised mussels with carrots. Pair your meal with an array of inexpensive local liquors, Portuguese house wines served by the liter, or signature cocktail concoctions.

Average bill – €17 (without drinks)

For an exceptional Mexican gastronomic experience in Lisbon visit Las Ficheras in one of the hippest parts of the city called Cais do Sodré. The exotic establishment is nothing like the usual Tex-Mex eateries you will find in Portugal, but an authentic place where patrons can unwind after a hard working day. The dining space celebrates everything South American, starting with the background music right down to the comforting atmosphere, created using rustic rock walls and polished wooden elements.

The culinary team presents a menu of Latin comfort dishes originating from Oaxaca, Puebla, and San Miguel. Expect to enjoy exquisite treats: cod ceviche in mango-chili relish, Ancho chili spiced octopus leg with sweet potato chips, grilled chicken tacos in green salsa, Iberian pork strips marinated in thyme, shrimp skewers in chili chipotle sauce, and minced beef stew with red beans. Wet your beak with their signature fruity cocktails like raspberry orange margarita, sangrita made with tequila and chili rim, and pink grapefruit mezcal.

Average bill – €21 (without drinks)

Next, we highly recommend heading over to Café Janis nestled near Jardim Dom Luis Park – a vibrant neighborhood spot that is a local favorite thanks to its inviting and tropical atmosphere. The interiors are French-inspired with a little exotic flair of plants and vines, green awnings, wicker wood furniture, stone tables, and a semi-open kitchen counter.

The bistro is known for its brunch and all-day breakfast specialties ranging from flavorful sandwiches to healthy bowls. The menu is a delightful mix of Portuguese and international cuisines cooked using locally sourced organic ingredients. Relish decadent delicacies like avocado toast, banana bread, smoked chicken sandwiches with tartare sauce, BLT burgers with fried eggs, Iberian ham with olives, garlic focaccia bread with prosciutto, and toasted brioche filled with grilled shrimps. The café also offers an impressive selection of beverages – wines, craft beers, coffees, teas, smoothies, and lemonades.

Average bill – €19

In summary, Lisbon is an amazing destination for expats who want to live here and make it their new home. Like every other place on earth, there are some disadvantages, but overall, the pros far outweigh the cons. With its warm climate, affordable food costs, high quality of life, stunning beaches, and lovely locals, Lisbon has something great to offer.