The stunning sights and best restaurants of Velha Goa, India

Divar Island by Vivek Sharma from Unsplash

Since Goa is worldwide famous for its beaches, it is no surprise that our review starts with one too. Divar Island is a quaint little oasis located on the Mandovi River. It is the perfect hideout amidst the chaos of the city, as well as one of the best places to visit in Goa, consisting of small villages and a beautiful coastline – ideal for sightseeing.

The main attraction here is the picturesque Piedade village that houses a 16th-century cathedral called Our Lady of Compassion Church. Rumor has it that in the ancient Kadamba dynasty time, there also was a Ganesh temple standing on the hilltop. If you are visiting Goa in August, you can participate in the Bonderam festival. It is a harvest celebration that includes a lavish feast and a procession where migrant workers wave flags of their countries while marching through the village. The only way to reach this island is by taking a ferry from the wharf situated near the Viceroy's Arch at Old Goa.

Since Divar Island does not have much to offer in terms of food, we recommend you check out Viva Panjim located in the vibrant Latin Quarter of Goa. Housed inside a heritage Portuguese mansion, it is a traditional Konkani restaurant with a quirky atmosphere. The cozy decor is more reminiscent of a home than a dining venue, complete with old redwood furniture, vintage light fixtures, art pieces hanging on the walls, Goan music playing in the background, and a red color palette.

The restaurant is not ornate or lavish, but therein lies its charm. The menu consists of seafood, pork, and authentic curry dishes. Visitors can relish scrumptious items like chicken xacuti (a Goan mushroom curry), pork vindaloo, prawn chili fry, fish curry with fragrant rice, dragon chicken, sticky pork ribs, and seafood pulao with raita (curd with veggies). Do not miss out on their decadent desserts, such as caramel pudding and bebinca – a Goan sweet dish made of coconut and egg.

Basilica of Bom Jesus Image by Bikashrd Licence: CC BY-SA 4.0

While many tourists visit Goa for its beaches, others consider a trip for a pilgrimage to important religious destinations, like the Basilica of Bom Jesus. Built at the turn of the 17th century by the Florentine sculptor Giovanni Battista Foggini, this red stone church is one of the oldest in India. The structure has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1999 and contains the remains of St. Francis Xavier – the patron saint of Goa.

The modest yet imposing appearance is a mix of Doric, Corinthian, and Baroque styles with intricate carvings. A lesser-known fact, the building was stripped of its limestone outer layer in the mid-20th century, making it the only church in Goa without plaster. The exterior of Basilica of Bom Jesus is impressive, with an imposing façade made of red sandstone pulled from the sea. You will find gold-gilded altars, white marble floors, and lots of paintings of St. Francis Xavier.

Café Rasa is a bistro, co-working space, and exhibition area all rolled into one. It was started by Navneet, a budding filmmaker, who fell in love with Goa the moment he stepped foot in the city. He wanted to create a community place where people could come, be productive, and enjoy a delicious meal. The outlet is small and inviting, with multiple rooms, each having its own theme and design. Upon entry, you are greeted by a colorful decor: distinct chairs, wooden tables, canvases by local artists, black tiled flooring, and big windows filled with natural light.

Do not be fooled by the fact that it is a co-working office, the menu offers a variety of healthy, delicious, and flavorful specialties. Some of the unique dishes you can sample here are ragi dosa, French pancakes with caramelized apples, egg Benedict with bacon, roast beef sandwich with sweet onion relish, tofu scramble bowl with stir-fried veggies, and pesto chicken salad. In beverages, we recommend sipping on their iced Vietnamese coffee, vanilla chai latte, watermelon and mint juice, and cascara hot brew.

Fontainhas. Image by Prathamesh More from Unsplash

Situated on the banks of Ourem Creek in Panaji is the fabulous neighborhood of Fontainhas. One of Asia’s only Latin quarters, it was once the seat of the Portuguese government in Goa. The area is a UNESCO-recognized Heritage Site, and it is dotted with old-fashioned Portuguese-style architecture, featuring fairytale-like houses painted in pastel hues of yellow, green, blue, and pink, with large balconies and red-tiled roofs, dating back to the mid-19th century. Each of the homes gets a fresh coat of color after the monsoon season every year, ensuring that they always look vibrant for visitors.

Fontainhas occupies a land space that was reclaimed in the 18th century and gets its name from the natural springs flowing at the edge called Fountain of Phoenix. It’s a mesmerizing place to wander and take photos, while also experiencing a fun side of Old Goa. After a day of strolling, if you would like to enjoy an authentic gastronomic meal, head to António at 31.

Located in the heart of Fontainhas, António at 31 is a tiny tapas restaurant that serves traditional Goan small plates and signature cocktails. Started by an energetic chef, Pablo Miranda, the place is a hangout joint for young adults. The interiors create a minimalistic yet charming atmosphere, complete with hanging wicker light fixtures, wooden tables with colorful marble tops, maroon tiled flooring, gray-mustard accents, and vintage pictures of the surrounding Fontainhas area.

The menu revolves around nostalgic reshaping of the chef’s childhood dishes in a contemporary way. Patrons of the restaurant can enjoy flavorsome items, including baitfish pakora, crispy baigan (eggplant), flaky smoked mackerel, beef chili fry, fish poke bowl with jasmine rice, and chicken sukkem (a coconut curry dish). Pair your meal with signature cocktails crafted using feni – a local liquor made by fermenting cashew apples.

Reis Magos Fort. Image by Annie B Paul from Unsplash

Dating back to 1493, Reis Magos Fort was the Portuguese defense structure aimed at protecting the area's then-capital – Velha Goa. It was reconstructed in 1707 to be used as an outpost over the Mandovi estuary and was later abandoned for much of the 19th and 20th centuries before being turned into a prison. Today, it is a scenic tourist attraction for those of you looking forward to taking a break from the beaches and diving into the city’s fascinating history.

While the fort itself is fun to explore, with its bright red lateritic walls and tall minarets, it is the breathtaking views of the Mandovi River that make it worth visiting. A trip to the highest vantage point of the structure is not to be missed, as you can find aerial inscriptions around the grounds which mark the spot where the remains of Dom Luís de Ataíde – former Viceroy of Portuguese India – are buried. The Reis Magos Church is also located nearby, a great landmark in Old Goa.

Myles High Bakehouse is the first live gourmet bakery to have started in Goa in 2007. Located near the Reis Magos Fort in Panjim, this elegant bistro is a must-visit place for tourists to enjoy amazing local snacks and comfort foods. The decor is simple and welcoming: the space is adorned with comfortable wicker sofa-style chairs, polished wood tables, modern diffused lighting, marbled floors, and the smell of freshly baked goods.

Besides gourmet breads, the kitchen creates a menu of continental cuisine. You can relish wholesome and flavorful dishes like rosemary roast chicken with potato wedges, Arabic grilled meats with pita bread, cheese-stuffed chicken steak with sautéed vegetables, creamy pesto spaghetti, baked vegetable lasagna, and prawn Thai curry rice bowl. Myles also features an extensive beverage menu consisting of hot special teas with cookies, iced coffees, smoothies, and freshly pressed juices to complement your meal. Before leaving, we highly recommend you take their cookies, biscuits, and savory items to munch on later.

St. Catherine’s Cathedral. Image by Ketan Saptasagare from Unsplash

St. Catherine’s Cathedral, or Se Cathedral, is the largest operational church in Asia that dates back to the 16th century. This Portuguese Gothic structure was in construction from 1562 to 1619 to commemorate a military victory over Goa on the day of Feast of Saint Catherine. Inside the church, you will find awe-inspiring Iberian architecture, high ceilings with wooden carvings, mosaic works of art, walls decorated with rich patterns, a crucifix, and numerous images of saints.

Se Cathedral is a gargantuan white edifice with a gorgeous façade full of relics. It is also the seat of the Archdiocese of Goa and Daman. The cathedral also houses a tower with the largest bell in the state. It’s being said that some visitors have had visions of Christ on the cross, and due to this phenomenon, the crucifix has been named the Cross of Miracles.

In a city with hundreds of dining options, a restaurant often needs to be a black sheep to stand out. True to its name, The Black Sheep Bistro is doing just that. Nestled inside an old Portuguese-style mansion, the place looks like any other building on the street – with classic pale yellow exterior walls. But the interiors beautifully combine old-world charm with modernity. The decor is contemporary in its ambience, featuring a gigantic bar, a variety of paintings, and photographs on the walls, along with plush sofas, comfy chairs, dark wooden floors, and subtle lighting.

The trendy music gives you a feeling of being in a lounge and at a fine-dining establishment at the same time. The kitchen works on a farm-to-fork concept and creates a menu by integrating Goan regional flavors with Western cuisine. Indulge your taste buds in delicious dishes like Goan chorizo pao, Malwani mushroom stroganoff, caramelized garlic tart, Milanese-style lamb shanks, Hainanese-style chicken rice, and malai paneer (cream cottage cheese). For a merry evening, order their signature cocktail concoctions, such as Amante Picante, Blush, The Paan, and Jig Jig Ale.

Goa is a stunning canvas painted with amazing architecture, colonial monuments, historic churches, fascinating spice farms, impressive coastal scenery, cobbled pathways, and unique Portuguese-influenced cuisine. With its golden-sand beaches, tangled palm trees touching the sky, and a relaxed atmosphere, Goa stands in stark contrast to the other bustling urban destinations in India. No matter how much time you spend in this city, you will wish you had a few extra days.

Are you fond of Indian cuisine? What is your favorite dish and have you ever tried recreating it at home? Share your experience with other foodies in the comment section below. And for more ideas, check out our selection of top recipes.